Beginner’s instruction will take you from bare plastic to finished model in a few easy steps.
These days, if you enjoy playing tabletop games, you probably have some miniatures to paint. It’s conceivable that you picked some up with a board game,
But it’s also possible that you invest much in a fancy Kickstarter, bought some Warhammer, or decided to spice up your roleplaying sessions.
It’s a fantastic hobby, but getting started might be a little intimidating.
This beginner’s instruction will take you from bare plastic to finish model in a few easy steps, making it an excellent location to start learning how to paint miniatures.
Tips for painting miniatures
- Equipment : a short list of supplies you will need for painting your miniatures.
- Preparation : preparing your miniature for painting.
- The initial step : during which the primary colors are applied.
- Shading : Adding shading to the model’s creases to suggest shadow.
- Layering and cleanup : Adding color and cleaning up the areas where shadow is unnecessary.
- Edge highlighting: and drybrushing is discussed in detail.picking out the final model elements, or detailing.
- Advanced methods and finishing touches : Next steps are something you might research.
We’ll use a Games Workshop Stormcast Eternal Sequitor as an example as we go along.
They are simple to find on eBay, and your neighborhood game shop might even have some for free as they were given out as part of a promotion a year or two ago.
Don’t believe you need this model or even these colors or paints to start because everything in this instruction is intended to be relatively broad rather than specifically suited to this model.
(Paints will be referred to by their overall color for clarity; nevertheless, the Citadel name will use in brackets.)
When using paintbrushes, it is helpful to have a stiff-bristled brush for drybrushing, a brush with a very good tip for details and highlights. A compact brush for little portions of the model, a larger brush for base coating and cleaning.
A palette is useful for thinning paint, but you may instead use a ceramic tile or the lid of a plastic container as a substitute.
If you wish to construct or purchase a wet palette, it can be quite useful, but it’s best to use a conventional palette for metals to prevent them from separating.
Get a few paints that cover the key components of your chosen scheme when you first start off. Typically, a model will use a few primary colors for things like skin, armor, clothing, and the like.
Gold and silver are typically prevalent metals, and you’ll also almost always want a brown color for the leather and straps. Which are another regular part of models.
Don’t overdo it with six variations of each color; start out simple and add more as necessary. Even while a can of spray primer is not require, it still makes for a great platform on which to build.
A model needs to be assembled before it can be painted. After separating the model from the sprue, mould lines can remove with the back of a craft knife.
Our Sequitor didn’t require adhesive because it was push-fit. Poly cement will be require to bond the non-push-fit models together.
Superglue is require to assemble some plastics, resins, and metals.The model must first be paint in black with a spray can as the initial stage.
If you wish to paint a model with a lot of vibrant colors, such as white or yellow.
You can use grey or white instead. Although black is typically the most forgiving because any difficult-to-reach places will always appear gloomy.
Products from Games Workshop can be used, although any black spray paint will work for priming.
A thin, even coat should be applied in brief spurts between 15 and 30 cm distant. And the model should allow to dry for around 30 minutes.
Repeat the procedure until you have a fully primed model if you missed any spots.
Painting your model’s surface with the primary colors is known as basecoating. The simplest method to accomplish this is to smoothly apply coats of paint in thin, even layers.
Generally speaking, you should always dilute the paint with a few drops of water before applying it.
It might be challenging to achieve the right consistency, but it should be thicker than water and runnier than paint.
Always be patient when applying your layers and keep in mind that two or three thin coats are preferable to one thick one.
Some of Games Workshop’s paints are designate as “base colors,” which are often thicker and cover better. In general, yellow doesn’t cover as well as blue or red pigments do. But there is no hard and fast rule, so you’ll need to verify.
It takes patience to achieve a smooth coat; patience is not magic. It appears thin and shaky at first, but a few applications will give you a decent foundation on which to build.
Another important thing to keep in mind when painting is that a mistake doesn’t have to be the end. Just paint over it again, being careful to keep your paint thin.
Your model should now be nicely colored, with clean, vivid paint layers. You can stop here if you want, but continuing will greatly enhance the model.
Light doesn’t have the same impact on miniatures as it does on larger items because, well, miniatures are just that—miniatures.
You need to paint in the shadows using darker colours rather than relying on the way that recess areas interact with light to produce them.
The simplest way to do this is to tint the model using “washes” or “shade paints.” These are thin paints that, among other things, settle in the crevices of models to suggest shadows.
You can use pre-made washes, such the shade paints from Games Workshop. But you can achieve the same result by thinning a darker color with water.
Check it again after washing it to make sure there aren’t large puddles of wash drying on flat surfaces at this point. Use a little water on your brush to disperse out any large blobs of wash that may be lying around.
Concentrate only on nooks and crannies, such as fabric folds
The areas around joints, and places with plenty of them, like gauntlets. Flatter parts will be left unaltered, preserving the brightness of clothing and armor.
Your model will choose when to cover a full region or just the nooks and crannies. But if you want to brighten it up later, you can always layer over a wash with the original color.
You can do more than just make the paint darker when shading a model. To give the shadow more depth, you can choose a contrasting color, such as green on red.
Look at colored artwork or other models to discover that shadows are rarely just black but frequently contain a tinge of color.
Searching for color wheels on Google can be a wonderful place to start if you need assistance choosing complementary or contrasting colors because there is a lot of science behind this technique.
Cleanup and layering
The model you get from bascoating and shading will look great for the majority of applications. So you might be content to leave it there.
It is advise that you at the very least clean up any wash-up elevate areas by painting over them with the original hue.
In order to enhance the contrast between the shadows in the nooks and the highlights that will add later, crisp colors are built up in this step. which is also known as layering, on the flat surfaces of the model.
You should either layer over the raised regions with the same color as the lower area, or a brighter color, if you want to enhance the contrast, depending on the look you’re going for.
With the edge…
Similar to shading, highlighting mimics the appearance of light refracting off an object’s highest points. Edge highlighting is the term used frequently to describe the act of painting these edges to get this effect.
It requires more finesse than shading, but if you keep your paint thin, it should still be doable. You can always use tissue paper to remove some of the extra paint if you find it to be too runny.
At this point, concentrate exclusively on the edges that would catch the light: the ridges on armor, particularly those around the fingers, and the sharp ridges that make up the higher portions of the folds in the fabric.
Avoid highlighting with the brush’s tip because it is difficult to manage. Instead of trying to be extremely precise with a brush tip, which frustrates even the greatest painters, try using the flat edge of your brush and dragging it along the raised parts.
The paint should come off easily onto these edges.
This makes it simple to draw attention to the hair strands on the top of the helmet, takes only a few seconds, and improves the readability of the text.
You can always add white paint to your basecoat or layer colors to highlight to avoid using extra paint. (Metallics won’t work with this.)
Bottle of paint is frequently simpler for consistency’s sake, with the added benefit that you won’t need to mix to get there if you want to start with a brighter or darker color in a different shade.
Sharp highlights won’t look as good on more organic textures like rock, dirt, fur, and wood, as well as other rough-textures materials.
In these cases, you should drybrush instead. This method calls for the use of a brush with stiff bristles, sometimes known as a drybrush on hobbyist websites.
Regular brushes can be used for sensitive regions, but a drybrush is suggest for broader areas. Simply place a small quantity of paint on your brush to highlight before drybrushing.
Wipe the paint on a dish towel or a piece of cardboard to work it into the bristles. Before applying the brush to the model, be sure that it is scarcely leaving any paint on the kitchen towel (thus the phrase “drybrushing”).
Simply brush the model quickly, as if dusting it, to apply the paint. This will cause any leftover paint to stick to the sculpture’s edges and textures.
Be cautious when you approach the model’s actual body because drybrushing can be messy and you don’t want paint to transfer to unwanted areas.
If you’re going to drybrush a model’s main body, you might want to think about doing so before adding extra details. Try it out to see where it works; the dustiness doesn’t often translate to the jagged edges of clothing and armor.
In order to avoid risking paint getting on the parts of the model are being work on more, it can be advantageous to delay finishing specific features on a model until the rest of it is.
You may find it helpful to select a suitable complementary or contrasting color for your details by consulting a color wheel or paying attention to the decisions made on other people’s models.
You’ll have to decide whether or not you want a certain aspect to stand out. Generally speaking, you don’t want a model’s face to be distracted by small details.
Sophisticated procedures and finishing touches
These techniques will enable you to finish a model to a respectable quality; an entire army or unit painted in this manner would look fantastic on the table.
It’s okay if there are a few elements to tidy up and errors to fix, but players won’t likely notice these in a game.
Before moving on to more complex techniques like blending, glazing, gradients, and so on.
The next step in pushing your model even farther would be to improve the contrast by concentrating on deepening the shading or brightening the highlights.
It’s crucial to keep in mind that you should cease working on a miniature when you are satisfied with it and that, in the end, they will primarily utilize as game components.
While miniature painting can produce works of breathtaking artistic merit and technical mastery,
The impact that a few neatly painted miniatures have on a table during a gaming session is just as satisfying.
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